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for the autumn, however, may still be obtained if the seed is sown at once in pots or ground.

At this time of the year pot grown plants require unceasing attention to keep them in thriving condition, and their various wants must be promptly supplied. Those under glass will require to be freely supplied with water, and the atmosphere around them should be kept moist by frequent syringings. Plants in exposed situations or plant sheds must be watered frequently, and when practicable the pots should be plunged in sand, soil, or some other material, to protect their sides from wind and sun, and lessen labour in watering. Insects must be kept down by unceasing attention, as if left to themselves they will increase with great rapidity at this time of the year. Camellias that have made their season's growth should be watered rather more sparingly than hitherto, though care must be taken not to let the plants suffer through lack of moisture. Camellias may be propagated from cuttings of this season's shoots when fairly ripened, but plants are increased slowly by this means, and as a rule should be raised from layers. Azaleas may now be readily propagated from cuttings, choosing shoots of the present season's growth which have ripened at the base. Most of the ornamental foliage plants such as Begonias, Caladiums, Marantas, etc., have now completed their main growth of leaves, and will scarcely require so much water as hitherto. When these plants reach their most perfect state the aim of cultivators should be to preserve their beauty as long as possible, and this object will to some extent be effected by retarding further development. The leaves are the principal attraction in the great majority of ornamental foliage plants, the flowers being generally insignificant and poor, and should be removed as soon as they make their appearance. As regards the Anthuriums, however, an exception must be made to this rule, as these plants produce showy and highly attractive flowers. Achimenes and Gloxinias, as they go out of bloom, should be allowed to go to rest by gradually curtailing the supply of water. Care must, however,

be taken not to dry them off too quickly, as under such conditions the roots are apt to shrivel and rot away. The same remarks will apply to Gesneras and Tydeas. Later plants of these families should have their growth stimulated by the use of liquid manure occasionally, as the more vigorous they are before the flowering period arrives, the greater satisfaction will they give, as a rule. Calceolaria, Cineraria, and Chinese Primula seed may be sown, and plants from previous sowings should be potted off singly into the smallest-sized pots, as soon as they have made their second pair of leaves. Fuchsias that have done blooming, and fairly ripened their growth, may be cut back if they are required for another season. Later plants will require constant attention in watering, syringing, and stopping, in order to secure compact, well-furnished specimens, and every effort should be made to keep the plants free from the insect known as thrip, which is often very troublesome at this time of the year. It will be advisable to propagate from cuttings a stock of the most desirable varieties, and these are now very numerous. Tuberous-rooted Begonias are becoming more and more popular, and deservedly so, as they are really a very beautiful and useful family of plants. They have been greatly improved within the last few years, and the plants now embrace in colour every shade of red, crimson, purple, yellow, lilac, and white, and some have flowers of extraordinary size. they can be grown without difficulty in an ordinary frame, or even in a shade house, every plant-grower should include a selection of tuberous Begonias in his selection. Many of the oldfashioned species of the Begonia family, such as B. fuchsioides, B. manicata, and B. Ingrami, are also well worth cultivating, as they bloom freely, and last in flower a long time. Pyrethrums are generally relegated to flower borders, but they may be advantageously cultivated as pot plants. The plants bloom freely under pot culture, last for a considerable time in bloom, and if they have been well grown, are very effective for conservatory or room decoration. This family has been

greatly improved of late years, and the flowers now embrace a number of brilliant shades of colour. Winter flowering plants should have a free light to prevent drawn and weakly growth. The pots should also be turned partially round every few days, to prevent lop-sided growth. Liquid manure should also be used once or twice a week to the stronger kinds, when growth requires to be stimulated, as the more headway the plants make till they reach the flowering stage the better.

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The heavy rains that fell in the early part of the month throughout Victoria were of great assistance to the late fruits, though the early kinds suffered to a great extent. If more care were taken in preparing the ground for fruit trees, and attending to their wants afterwards, there would be fewer complaints as to the failure of crops from the effects of dry weather. It is, unfortunately, a too common thing in this part of the world to see, at this time of the year, shrivelled-up crops of fruit, and stunted trees that appear to be on the point of dying off. this condition are generally those that are growing in shallow or ill prepared soils, or those that have, to a large extent, exhausted the land of its plant food. Contrast the state of trees during a summer drought growing under the conditions described, with those in deep well-prepared ground, and the advantages of good cultivation will be clearly apparent to the most superficial observer. Fruit growers ought obtain useful lessons from summer droughts as to the true requirements of trees. If they are observant they cannot fail to learn that the land ought to be well prepared, and that the site for an orchard should be selected with care. With a sufficient depth of properly prepared soil, a due regard to drainage requirements, and the aid of mulching, fruit trees will be able to get through some weeks of dry weather with comparative impunity. Another matter of importance is to keep the trees as free from weeds as possible during the growing season. Though in Great Britain and other countries, where the climate is com

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paratively moist during the spring and early summer, grass orchards thrive well, yet they will not do in this part of the world. If in the spring and early summer months, when the trees ought to be making vigorous growth, the supply of rain is limited, as it generally is, any undergrowth of vegetation must necessarily assist in rapidly exhausting the moisture from the soil. On the other hand if the ground is kept perfectly free from grass and weeds the moisture and nutriment contained in the soil is used legitimately to supply the wants of the trees. Budding should be proceeded with at once in the case of stone fruits and trees of the Citrus family, and if early worked stocks have failed they must be budded again without loss of time, or otherwise the season will be lost. Strawberry plantations should have the surface soil loosened when it has become hard, taking care not to disturb the roots to any great extent. Strawberry plantations should not be allowed to stand more than two, or at the most, three years, as better returns are obtained from young plants than old ones. Rock Melons, as soon as the fruit has attained its full size, should be supplied with water less liberally than while the plants were making vigorous growth. As the fruit begins to colour, pieces of board, slate, or stone should be placed underneath each one, to prevent injury through lying upon the ground. It will also be advisable as the fruit begins to ripen to lay a handful of grass or straw over each one to prevent it from getting scorched by the sun.

In the vegetable garden every effort should be made to keep advancing crops in vigorous condition by the aid of mulching and the use of water, when necessary. Various seasonable crops must also be got in as circumstances will permit. Cabbages and Cauliflowers should be planted out rather extensively this month if the weather is favourable, and due provision must be made for future sup

plies of plants. Moderate sowings of Turnips should be made, and it will be advisable to include among the sorts the garden Swede, a variety that is a very useful vegetable. French Beans may be sown every fortnight for the next

two months, if a good succession is required. Bearing crops of Beans should have their pods gathered regularly whether they are required for use or not, in order to prolong the fruitfulness of the plants. If seed is required, it will be advisable to set apart one or more rows for the purpose, as the pods first produced are as a rule the finest, and yield the best seed. It is a great mistake when the fag end of a crop is saved for seed. Potatoes, and more especially the Kidney and other early maturing varieties should be planted without delay for an Autumn crop. Mature crops of Potatoes and other roots should be lifted, as if left in the ground they are apt to deteriorate, and

there is the risk of a second growth setting in after heavy rain. Onions and Shallots should be taken up when their growth has thoroughly matured, taking care not to let the bulbs get scorched by the sun. A small sowing of Onions may be made for use in a green state, and Shallots and Garlic may be planted. Another sowing of Celery may be made, and plants when six or seven inches high should be planted out. Asparagus plantations will be improved by a light surface dressing of salt. The flowers of Rhubarb should be removed as they make their appearance, as the production of seed is weakening to the plants.

"OUR COSTUMIER.”

By "LUCIA."

There is a tendency among English ladies this season to dress with greater plainness and simplicity in the daytime than has been customary for some years, reserving the splendour of their grandes toilettes for fête or evening wear.

The ladies of the Primrose League are especially patronising quiet colours, and costumes which are characterised by extreme neatness and nicety in every detail. But if by fashion's decree ordinary day toilettes are unobtrusive, those for visiting or evening wear are of excessive richness, both as regards texture and all accessories. It is at evening entertainments that the grandes dames are seen in all the glory of their most elaborate attire, for nothing is thought too rich for such occasions. H.R.H. the Princess of Wales, whose promenade and carriage costumes are always characterised by their stylish simplicity, invariably appears in great splendour in the evenings, when she dons a profusion of jewels. Some of the new materials for ball gowns are positively dazzling in their brilliance when seen by the medium of gaslight. "All that glitters" appears to be in great demand this season, and under

this classification I may mention tinsel and beads of every description. Some of the fabrics have designs of the most intricate nature, worked in iridescent beads on a gold ground, while others are closely dotted over with crystal or metal sequins, which sparkle and shimmer as they catch the light. The favourite material for ballroom wear is still tulle, and many of the new varieties are adorned in various ways by means of beads or embroidery. Young girls, as a rule, wear plain tulle, or else those varieties which are sprinkled with single beads, pearls being most in favour. The more elaborate kinds of tulle are worked with stars, crescents, rings, or diamonds of beads; while some are dotted over at regular intervals with pendent bead tassels. These fancy tulles are, however, only intended to be used in combination with the plain varieties, and are generally employed for the full plain overskirt, panels, or draperies. Waterfalls are still general in tulle gowns, but there is a modification of them known as the "ballet" which promises to become popular. It consists of three or four skirts, as it were, one above the other, and if liked

the whole skirt may be formed in this manner, but more generally the back only is made thus. One of the newest modes of ornamenting the skirts of evening gowns is to place a ladder of close-set bows up one side, generally the left, or, if preferred, bunches of feathers or garlands of blossoms may be substituted. Flights of birds across the front or down the side are also fashionable, but will not be patronised by those who feel any scruples regarding the wholesale slaughter of our feathered friends. Dark tulles are much worn by married women and girls who are no longer in the first flush of youth, the shades most affected being brown, moss-green, chocolate, and electric blue. A black tulle gown is a most useful addition to the wardrobe of all those who go out much, as it always looks well in a ballroom, and may be worn with flowers or feathers of various colours. In these dresses jetted tulle is much used, also bands of black velvet closely studded with cut jet beads.

A new variety of bodice for evening wear is high to the throat, with a transparent vest. For ball toilettes the decolleté style is decidedly the most popular, and as for sleeves, they have almost vanished, the merest apologies taking their place. A string of beads. or a strap of lace over the shoulder is, in many of the newest gowns, the only attempt made in the shape of sleeves. But if they are banished from low bodices, sleeves play an important part in the high or half-high varieties which are so dressy for dinner or evening wear. Though some of the high bodices have quite short sleeves, the majority are made with those reaching almost to the elbow, the prettiest meeting the bend of the arm in front and falling in a point at the back of the elbow, and trimmed with lace and ribbons.

There is a decided change in the manner of draping the skirts of evening dresses this season, the chief novelty being that the fulness is often brought to the front, where it is caught about half-way down the skirt in a pouf. The bottom of the skirt may be finished in one of two ways, either by having the tulle (or whatever the material may be) tucked in at the hem, forming

another pouf, or else in the old way of being edged by kilts or flounces of some sort. Notwithstanding the numerous predictions that the days of tournures were about to end, skirts are made quite as bouffants as ever, and give no signs of modification as yet.

Bows of ribbon, rosettes, and flowers appear in the hair again this season. The latter must, however, be characterised by extreme lightness. Any heavy or dark flowers are inadmissible, the transparent varieties being most in request. Jewels are still the ornaments par excellence for the hair, and stars, crescents, and circlets are employed thus in profusion. Aigrettes are also worn, and apropos of feathers I may say they are much more worn than flowers for adorning ball gowns. Necklaces and close-fitting collarettes are again worn with low bodices, but they must always be close up to the neck, presenting a neat appearance. Bands

of velvet or satin ribbon are also much patronised, and a new fashion is to fasten them with a tiny bunch of flowers caught with the brooch.

velvet to match the band round the throat are worn with low dresses, and look very pretty with the ends caught through buckles, but as a correspondent of one of the English fashion journals says, they "are apt to suggest the recent vaccination of the wearer."

There is at present in French and English fashions a marked attempt to revive the Watteau style of dress. Not only do the manufacturers produce Watteau designs in many of the new textures, but the "artistes," modistes, or whatever they like to style themselves, go still further and fashion them into picturesque toilettes, which are reproductions of those worn by the Arcadian shepherdesses. The pompadour designs, the incroyable coats, and the waistcoats, jabots and ruffles of the Louis XV. period are all said to be once more à la mode, and their revival has brought about that of the court dance with which they were contemporaneous. I refer to the stately minuet which is once more extensively danced and taught in France, where "Watteau balls" are quite a feature of this season, the guests, of course being attired in costumes of that

style. So successful have they proved in Paris that London society is anxious to inaugurate them in England. In fact, steps have already been taken to introduce them. West-end houses are preparing Watteau toilettes, and court teachers of dancing and etiquette are giving lessons in the sixteenth figures of the Minuet Quadrille so fashionable in Paris. As the present style of wearing the hair is almost exactly that of the period referred to, the only difference required will be the addition of powder, which I dare say will meet with little or no opposition from the fair sex, for powdered hair is most becoming to almost every lady. The only difficulty which presents itself with regard to these balls is the dress of the gentlemen, for it is very unlikely that they will go in for the plumes, ruffles, jabots, and periwigs of the Watteau period, and the regulation evening suits would look rather incongruous in proximity to the picturesque toilettes of the ladies. It is thought that a compromise will be made and that the sterner sex will appear in the costume which etiquette ordained to be worn at the last entertainment at Marlborough House, and which consisted of dress coat, knee breeches, silken hose, and high-heeled shoes with buckles. No doubt, with these revivals of old styles, we shall also have fashions innumerable raked up for our benefit from the times of our great-great-grandmothers. As it is I read in a journal which claims to be one of the highest authorities in matters of fashion, that "leg of mutton sleeves" are coming in again. Surely, fashion must be at her wit's end, when she falls back on such abominations as these and crinolines. And then, forsooth, we read of these antiquities under the heading of "new fashions." Truly, there is "nothing new under the sun. Among other monstrosities with which we are threatened is false hair, which, of course, is always patronised by a few, at any rate by those who think it necessary to supplement the scanty locks with which nature has endowed them. But if it is decreed that we are all to display an abundance of hair elaborately dressed, there is little doubt that at least eight out of

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every ten women will be foolish enough to put on what has grown on the . heads of others.

The fans of the present day are certainly very beautiful, many of them perfect works of art. One of the newest and most fashionable varieties is of fine crape or gauze, exquisitely painted with designs of birds flying or in clusters, or else with charming little peeps of landscape. Designs of flowers are by no means so fashionable as the above styles. Fans of pale pink gauze painted in metallic colours and mounted in mother-of-pearl are very popular, and, by the way, pink is to be one of the most fashionable shades of the coming season. A very artistic fan of delicate black gauze had the design of an embodied spirit flying near a young crescent moon, surrounded by stars. This was painted in neutral and pale blue shades, and veiled by a medallion of fine black gauze, with pretty effect.

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One of the latest freaks of fashion is that of Parisian élégantes who have this season adopted as an ornament ancient Egyptian talisman, viz., the "Oudja" or Eye of Horus, representing the rising sun, and signifying health and prosperity. This ornament dates from the time of the Pharoahs, and specimens of it were brought from Phoenicia by M. Renan, while others have come from Cyprus, and varieties of it are to be found among the Egyptian and Assyrian antiquities in the British Museum. Made of gold, silver, lapis, wood, or paste, this talisman appears in the bracelet of many a fair Parisienne, who regards it with a sort of superstition. In appearance it is a small square frame in either silver or gold, containing the painting of an almond shaped eye, from which is falling a spiral tear formed of either of these metals. This unique article of adornment may be worn as a brooch or pin, but more generally appears in the form of a pendant to a bracelet, and appears to possess a great charm for the grandes dames of France, who seem to have a half serious belief that it will bring them luck, and that while wearing it they are likely to enjoy health, wealth, and happiness. For its claims to beauty-it has none. Such is the power of fashion!

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