July 11th, Thursday.25 A fine morning, wind a breeze ahead as usual. At 5 A. M. set off. Co. S. 40° W. 1 m, S. 22° W. 2/3 m, S. 50° W. 1 m. At 5:55 A. M. put ashore at 63 men; stayed till 6:40 A. M. then set off. Co. S. 50° W. 1-2/3 m, S. 40° W. 1 m. Put ashore at 7-1⁄2 A. M. and observed for longitude and time. (Several observations omitted.) At 8-1⁄2 A. M. embarked. Co. S. 40° W. 1-4 m, to Indians. Set off at 9:25 A. M. S. 68° W. 34 m. Run part of a rapid. The ignorance of our guide nearly occasioned the loss of our canoe in the rocks. Went down in the left about 10 yards with the line, but all this is good, out in the mid. and left S. R. C., very many large crickets. S. W. 1⁄2 m, S. 50° W. 1⁄2 m, S. 68° W. 1-2 m. At 1⁄2 past noon again left another large band. Co. S. 56° W. 2/3 m to a strong rapid. S. 60° W. 4 m, S. 78° W. 1 m, S. 15° W. 2 m to a series of strong rapids. At 2 P. M. put ashore and carried about 200 yards, then camped with about 300 families, who gave us as usual a rude dance, but the respectable men among them had much trouble to reduce them to order, and they were the least regular in their way of behavior of any we have yet seen. At night they cleared off with difficulty and left us to go to sleep. A gale as usual, saw nothing of the reported bad Indians.20 July 12th, Friday.27 A fine morning, but windy early, got up and waited the promised horses to be lent us to carry the things over the portage, but not coming we carried a full mile to a small bay. Co. S. 12° W. 1 m, the Co. S. 15° W. 1 m. Here we saw many gray colored seals. At 8 A. M. set off and went about 2 m, part paddle, part line. Fired a few shots without effect at the seals. At middle of last course put ashore 25 Continuous and dangerous rapids and visits with the Indians permit a run of only about 30 miles today. The afternoon's camping place is a trifle uncertain, but Celilo Falls being entirely submerged that year he probably ran down to the head of the Upper Dalles or Ten Mile Rapids, then carried a short distance and camped between there and the Lower Dalles or Five Mile Rapids with the Echeloot Indians of Lewis and Clark. These are the Short and Long Narrows through which Lewis and Clark ran their pirogues to the great astonishment of these Indians, but at a different stage of the water. 26 This remark indicates a knowledge of Lewis and Clark, from copy of Patrick Gass' journal, which Mr. Thompson carried. 27 Both portages are short because of high water; the seals are seen in Big Eddy and the short "carry" is at Three Mile Rapids and the canoe is "gummed" just above The Dalles. The camp at evening is on Oregon side a little above the Cascade Locks. Distance traveled is about 55 miles. and carried about 100 yards goods to an island on the left side of channel, boiled fish, gummed the canoe and observed for Latitude, Longitude, etc. (Observations not intelligible.) At 10 A. M. set off, Co. S. 68° W. 2 m, S. 70° W. 4 m, W. m, N. 78° W. 4 m, N. 60° W. 4 m, N. 22° W. 1-4 m, N. 30° W. 4 m, N. 55° W. 34 m, W. 2-14. At 11:19 we put ashore to gum. At noon set off, Co. + 1 m, Co. S. 80° W. 2-2 m. In this course saw the first ash, etc., S. 56° W. 3/4 m, S. 75° W. 2 m, N. 88° W. 2-4 m, S. 70° W. 2-4 m. 1⁄2 m. gone a snow mount rather ahead, say 30 miles, another on right, rather behind, say 25 miles.28 The country is now hilly and at end of Co. the hills high, rude with patches of snow on the summit. Much large willow with spots of ash, etc. Co. S. 60° W. 2 m, plus 3 m, all course well wooded with red fir, smooth poplar, willows and a few ash etc. and cedar but full of branches. S. 82° W. 3-1/3 m, S. 65° W. 1 m, S. 55° W. 2 m, S. W. 34 m, at end of course. At 5:50 P. M. we stopped for a canoe of two men who came and smoked with us, we made signs for them to take a bit of tobacco to their people and tell them we were coming to smoke a pipe with them. We went about 100 yards through poplars, stopped at 5 P. M. and camped for the night at the desire of the Chief, traded two good salmon; he jabbered a few words of broken English he had learnt from the ships. Obs'd Saturn for Lat'de 45°-2. These people took us in to their houses which were well arranged, very full of salmon, and so close as to be intolerably warm, stayed there about one hour, when I came to my people. They speak a language quite different from the others, are of a squat, fat, brawny make, dark brown hair, the children light colored do, the women fat, brawny and naked, as are also the men, not so dirty as those at the Falls. Latitude 45° 39′ 47′′ N. July 13th, Saturday.29 A fine day, the people on the right side, or north side are called Wan-Thlas-lar, on the south side 28 The only point on the middle river where both Mt. Hood to the south and Mt. Adams to the north are visible is just opposite present city of Hood River. 29 Owing to delay in starting and the portage around the Cascades, the day's run is only about 25 miles and the camp at evening near or opposite Rooster Rock. Point Vancouver, which is nearly opposite to Corbett, Oregon, just below, he seems familiar with, through the records in Vancouver's Voyages probably. 31 Pesheek, bad.31 Woe-yark-Eek30. Thloos, good, Kummertacks-I understand or know it, Knick-me-week-no-se-ye, far off. After much delay we were obliged to set off. get across to the north side with Woe-Yark-Eek, course say northwest 2/3 miles, then carried S. W. 1 m, S. 70° W. 1 m. Embarked S. 30° W. 1⁄2 m, S. R. a small channel. W 14 m, S. 68° W. 1/6, S. 5° W. 1/6, S. 22° W. 1/6, S. 56° W. 4, S. 60° W. 1/6, S. 15° W. 4, S. 4, S. 5° W. 8, S. 22° W. 1⁄4, S. 43° W. 4, S. 60° W. 34, S. 14, S. W. 1 m at end of course, put ashore and boiled salmon. Here an Indian followed us and gave us a salmon. At 6-34 P. M. set off. We had before stopped about half an hour to trade salmon at two houses-S. 40° W. 5 m, S. 2/3 m. This course crossed the river. Camped at 8:5 P. M. a little above Point Vancouver. July 14th, Sunday.32 A very fine morning. At 3-4 A. M. set off, Co. S. 80° W. 2-2 m, S. 80° W. 2-1⁄2 m, S. 60° W. 1-2/3 m, S. 60° W. 1 m, S. 85° W, 1 m, plus 1 m, plus 2-1⁄2 m, plus 2-2 m, plus 2-2 m, N. 85° W. 1-2 m, plus 2 m, N. 80° W. 1 m, plus 4 m, N. W. 1-2 m, N. 33° W. 1⁄4 m, N. 15° W. 1-1/6 m, N. 2-1⁄2 m, N. 30° W. 1⁄2 m, plus 1 m, plus 1-34 m. We landed about at their houses and traded a few half dried salmon. At 10-14 A. M. put ashore to boil salmon. At 11:35 A. M. set off Co. N. 40° W. 1-2 m. A simple conical mountain at end of course bore N. 15° E. 30 m buried under snow. Co. N. 50° W. 1 m, plus 1-1⁄2 m, N. 56° W. 2-2 m, plus 1-4 m. Co. N. 60° W. 1-2 m, N. 56° 2-4 m, N. 60° W. 34 m, N. 70° W. 2-34m, plus 1 m, S. 85° W. 1-4 m, S. 80° W. 1-34 m, to Indians, N. 50° W. 3⁄44, S. 36° W. 2-2 m, S. W. 34, S. 56° W. 1⁄2 m, S. 60° W. 34, S. 80° W. 1-2 m, S. 55° W. 1/3 m, S. 70° W. 1/6 m, W. 1/6 N. 60° W. 2 m. Put up on an ugly place of rocks and an old campment, left the canoe in the water. Obs'd Saturn for Lat’de 44 just V. G.-Tide fell about 2 ft. in the night. Lat. 46° 10′ 5′′ N. 30 Compare with names given by Lewis and Clark to these Indians. 32 Mr. Thompson travels about 85 miles today, and his camp at night is under the rocky cliffs some distance above Cathlamet on the Washington shore. He stops to boil salmon on Sauvies' Island, and Mt. St. Helens is sighted from about where the city of that name now stands. July 15th, Monday.33 A very fine day, somewhat cloudy. Stayed till 6:25 A. M. shaving and arranging ourselves, when we set off Co. N. 33° W. 1 m, N. 65° W. 2 m, N. 78° W. 1 m, S. 70° W. 1 m, S. 60° W. 1⁄2 m, S. W. 1⁄2 m. The fog all along prevents me seeing well. S. 34° W. 2 m, S. 22° E. 1⁄2 m, S. 1⁄2 m, S. 50° W. 1/5, W. 1/6, S. W. 1⁄2 plus 2/3 m, S. 50° W. 2 m, plus 1 m, N. 68° W. 1 m, plus 1-2 m to Pt. Tongue but as the wind was blowing from sea very hard we made a portage of about 200 yards over this Tongue and again embarked Co. to the Ho. S. 50° W. 1-2 m. At 1 P. M. thank God for our safe arrival, we came to the House of Mr. Astor's Company, Messrs. McDougal, Stuart & Stuart, who received me in the most polite manner, and here we hope to stay a few days to refresh ourselves. 33 The islands and low marshes along the south shore of the Columbia are all inundated, but Mr. Thompson crosses over and follows that shore to Tongue Point and portages across where Capt. Clark carved his name on a tree December 3, 1805, but does not mention the tree. For contemporary accounts of his arrival at Astoria compare Franchere's Narrative, pp. 121-2, and Alex. Ross' Oregon Settlers, pp. 85-6, and Irving's "Astoria." ADDRESS DELIVERED AT DEDICATION OF GRAND RONDE MILITARY BLOCK HOUSE AT DAYTON CITY PARK, OREGON, AUG. 23, 1912 Bu M. C. GEORGE Grand Army Veterans and Pioneers and Fellow Citizens: This is an age of railroads, telegraphs, telephones, wireless messages, sky scrapers and airships, in short, progress and advancement o'er land and sea and under and over it all. Yet, within our recollection, this was an uncivilized Indian country, and exposed pioneers were working day and night to insure and upbuild American civilization. In the winter of '55 and '56 the settlers of this valley, apprehensive of the spread of the Yakima outbreak among the Indians that were gathered at the Grand Ronde Reserve, assisted probably by Lieut. Hazen's soldiers, began the building on the hill on the rim of that Reserve this old Block House as a Fort, and surrounded it with a stout stockade for refuge and defense. Afterwards it was moved to the Agency about three miles distant on the Reserve, and used as a jail for unruly Indians. Today, on its removal to this beautiful park, through the efforts of your public-spirited citizens, and the consent of our Government, with the aid of our Representatives, you have assembled to dedicate it as a momument in the memory of Gen. Joel Palmer, the founder of Dayton, and the donor of this ground, and as a museum of Indian and Pioneer relics. Gen. Palmer was our first Supt. of Indian affairs, and he it was that assembled the various tribes of Indians on the Reserve, and largely through his influence this old Block House was erected, afterwards known as Fort Yamhill. Gen. Palmer, fearing trouble, deemed it necessary for a force of U. S. troops to be there stationed to maintain order and insure safety. Gen. Phil. Sheridan in his Memoirs says that Gen. Wool assigned him from Fort Vancouver to the Grand Ronde early in '56 and that sometime prior to his arrival at Grand Ronde the |